The Diary of Alex Wilson from his trip to Singapore
with RAF Seletar Association
March 20th to April 6th 2009

Introduction

This was to be a nostalgic return to RAF Seletar for Jack Docherty and Alex Wilson who were both based in West Camp working for Aircraft Repair Squadron Between February 1957 and July/August 1959. It would be 50 years since Jack and Alex had left Seletar but Jack did a second tour 1967/69 at RAF Tengah with his wife, Mary, and children Lynn and John.
Alex wrote this and Jack is the narrator (mostly).

Day One Saturday March 21st

We flew from Glasgow to Heathrow to meet up with rest of the Association travellers which amounted to around 37 including some Wives and a few men such as ourselves on their own; we then flew direct from Heathrow with Singapore Airlines on the A380-800 (the new double-decker aircraft) to Changi Airport - duration around twelve and a half hours.

Quite a long but pleasant flight but when we arrived we had just missed a storm and it was still raining.

Arrived at Carlton Hotel after 8 pm got our cases delivered to our room on 11th floor – had a meeting with Kuan Joo our Singapore co-ordinator who gave us an itinerary and explained what would be happening – also issued us with passes for MRT and bus travel and explained how to use them. Afterwards Jack and I went for a quick beer (pint of Tiger) across the road at an Australian themed bar in a complex called Chijmes and got our heads down for the night.

Day Two Sunday March 22nd

Which was designated a “ free day “ so after breakfast (which was an excellent buffet style and catered for all tastes and nationalities) we went across North Bridge Rd. to the Raffles Hotel which was next to our Hotel and took some photos outside and inside the Main Lobby and also got one with the Sikh doorman.

The Britannia Club on Beach Rd. is now empty but in a good state of repair awaiting further development. What we found strange was that the sea used to be behind the Britannia Club but the land has been reclaimed and skyscraper shopping malls and buildings are now there!

We then had a wander to Bugis Street and were amazed at the transformation since we last saw it in fact it was “out of bounds“ to us. On one side of Victoria Street was Bugis Junction which housed an MRT station (underground railway) and a very upmarket shopping mall. This is a contrast to across the street which was Bugis Street but not as we remembered it. Instead it was an enclosed market with lots of cheaper goods of all descriptions for locals and tourists alike.

Eventually you come out into the open again and continue into Albert Street which had more stalls selling anything from fruit and flowers to watches and electronic goods.

We headed back to the hotel and some of our colleagues were gathered in the foyer and said Kuan Joo had made an impromptu trip across to take anyone who wished to go for a curry. not being a curry fan, I thought why not, lets try it so we had a quick wash and change and 17 of us got on the Public Bus Service with Kuan Joo conducting us like “Mary Poppins” across the roads and we had our initiation in using our electronic bus pass.

Anyway, we arrived at this place on Dempsey Rd. called “Sammy’s Place” and we all got seated round a long table with Tiger Beer in full flow. Curry was served in dishes spread around the table and we were issued with a large banana leaf instead of a plate and you helped yourselves to the many courses that were placed on the table and ate with your fingers. The courses seemed to be never ending but it was not hot curry and I enjoyed it; but it was to be my one and only curry during the trip.

Eventually Kuan Joo called time and phoned for taxis. Alex and I shared one with 2 others back to the Hotel to end a long day.

Day Three Monday March 23rd

Early start at for Bus Trip at 9 am after Breakfast. We toured the West Coast looking at some landmarks and new developments taking place. There is a lot of building work going on even though Singapore is in recession also!

We eventually arrived at Tengah Airbase and this is the first time the Association has been allowed entry. We were accompanied by Security on our bus and shown round parts of the Base but not the restricted operational Flying areas. We were taken to a Museum where photographs over the years were on display on the walls and Jack suddenly drew my attention to a photo of the 50th Anniversary Parade of 74 Squadron which he served with and, to our amazement, there he was on Parade Inspection in 1968. I spoke to the Area CO and asked if he could get a copy for Jack which he did but it was a photocopy and was not too clear.

We were each presented with a Souvenir Air Force ball-point pen and we all left a bit more enlightened.

We then moved on to Kranji War Memorial. It was a moving experience to see the graves of young men 18/19 years old killed during the early years of WW2 before they even had a life. We walked behind the Memorial to see if we could access a road into the estate in Woodlands where Jack stayed with his Family from 1967 to 1969 but there was a fence and large bushes so we could not see anything except for roofs of houses. Jack said he would like to us come back on a “free day” and see if we could find his old house.

We returned to the Carlton to rest and freshen up for going out to dinner. We gathered at 6 pm and all walked down to the Marina Centre for dinner at a very nice Seafood Restaurant called “Pariss” where it was buffet style service. We helped ourselves to whatever we wished and were supplied with wine or beer. This was an excellent dinner and afterwards we walked back to the hotel.

Day Four Tuesday March 24th

After breakfast we left in a bus at 9 am for Sembawang Shipyard which used to be our Royal Naval Dockyard before being used as a civilian shipyard and by the Singapore Navy. The Royal Navy still have a yard alongside but we were not allowed in.

This visit had been arranged for the first time ever via the courtesy of one of our party Captain Chris Puxley. We were accompanied on our bus by one of the managers who explained what was going on but strictly no photographs were to be taken inside the yard.

We saw oil-rigs being built and a couple of cruise ships in for restocking and also the huge King George V1 Dry dock where our Royal Navy Battleships were repaired whilst serving in these waters. Alex remembered in our time at Seletar 1957 to 59 the Aircraft Carrier HMS Albion was dry-docked there and all its aircraft and crews were transferred for a few months to Seletar and operated from our base where we made friends with many of the Navy guys.

The bus then took us to Changi beach, which was now unrecognisable with lovely wooded picnic areas and a nice sandy beach with car-parking.

We next went to the former RAF Changi Air Base which was originally a Japanese Airfield. They interred POWs who had dysentery in Block 151 and in 1958, whilst still under the RAF, personnel who were cleaning out a storeroom and scraping down the walls uncovered murals.

These murals depicted the “Ascension”, “Crucifixion” and “Last Supper”. Eventually after research it was found that this small room had been used as a Chapel by the POWs. An English POW, Stanley Warren, had painted them whilst interred there. He had survived and returned to Britain. In 1963 he was finally persuaded to return and restore his murals over the next few years with the help of young Singaporeans and the room has been kept as a Museum Chapel.

We arrived at Changi Village, which is now quite busy with food restaurants, so we stopped here for lunch if required. We had coffee and a look round some shops, but had to shelter as it started to rain heavily.

We moved on to a Chapel and Museum, which was very moving, with lots of artefacts and reminders of the atrocities during the Japanese Occupation. They are currently compiling data regarding all recorded internees of the Japanese, which will soon be available on a web-site I think.

We stopped off at Paya Lebar Airport, which is now a Singapore Air Force Base, but used to be Singapore’s original International Airport. We visited their museum which displayed various aircraft and interesting relics from the past.

We returned to the City late in the afternoon and headed for the Singapore Flyer which is the equivalent of the London eye, but at 165 metres high it is 30 metres higher than its London counterpart. Everyone went on except 3 people of whom Alex was one! The trip lasted around 40 Minutes.

We headed back to the Hotel before going out later for dinner at a restaurant on the sea front and we ended up eating outdoors. We got a large table which seated our usual group of eight comprising of Alex, Dick and Cathie Duff, Hugh and Morag McNeil, Dave and Brenda from Lincolnshire and me.

This turned out to be an excellent night with wine and beer flowing to accompany the 9 or 10 Courses served.

Day Five Wednesday March 25th

This was another “free day” and, after breakfast, Alex and I walked the length of Orchard Road with a couple of “cool down” stops. We went further on round the back of Orchard Rd. with me trying to locate my old flat where I first stayed for a few months on my 2nd tour with Mary and family before moving to Woodlands.

We were in and out of small streets until we came across a couple of older flats; Jack felt one of them was where they had stayed. So we hailed a taxi to take us back to the Carlton.

Day Six Thursday March 26th

This was a day we were looking forward to: the visit to our old Camp, RAF Seletar, which is now occupied by Singapore Armed Forces.

The bus took us on a tour first with Kuan Joo taking us to places we might remember but, in some instances, were no longer there. We went to Serangoon Gardens Estate where many married Airmen lived. He pointed out the site of the place, the “Captain’s Cabin”, where Alex celebrated his 21st birthday; it no longer exists.

To pass time before our visit to Seletar we visited a mushroom farm where the mushrooms are cultivated on special logs brought in from China.

We travelled through Jalan Kayu, which for the most part was unrecognisable with high rise buildings on the outskirts, and a High School with beautiful playing fields. The Highway Bar and Seletar Bar were gone and what used to be a kampong on the other side of the road is now a housing estate. We stopped outside what used to be our Camp Gates and Guardroom, and got out to take photos. The buildings were exactly the same as 50 years earlier, maybe a different colour.

We were puzzled why lorries and vehicles seemed to pass through without anyone stopping them. We found out later that the Army restricted area was deeper in and new security gates were in place. The old signpost board was still there just past the Guardroom showing the layout of the streets but had changed a little.

We went over to The Youth Flying Club on West Camp, where we were met and shown a small introductory DVD about their set-up. We were shown how they teach primary school children aeromodelling. Then, if selected, when 16 years old at High School some of them can go on to Pilot Training with a view of slotting them into the Singapore Air Force but they lose some to the Commercial Airlines.

We were shown into the big modern hangar, which was probably built where the Cookhouse and Naafi used to be but no photos! Sadly G and H Blocks, the Sergeants Mess etc. were pulled down in 2001.

We were kindly provided with a buffet lunch by the Youth Flying Club and left by bus once more and we toured round the old RAF Married quarters to let people who had lived there see their old accommodation.

We journeyed on to Punggol Point where you could see Johor Bahru across the Straits of Johor. There was a plaque there, and Kuan Joo told us it was there to commemorate the place where the Japanese, during their occupation rounded up hundreds of Chinese and executed them there.

We returned to Seletar Base and waited for the Camp Commandant, Mr John Gabriel, to escort us into the restricted area in East Camp where many of the old RAF buildings are still standing, such as the accommodation Blocks and also the “Malcolm “ Club. The Parade Ground was still the same as ever. The sad thing for me was that the huge sports field that we used to play football on was just a fraction of its former self and the big station floodlight pitch, where Alex played for Seletar, “B” and Scotland in the Home Nations Bone of Contention had also gone. The CO showed us Nine X which was the RAF’s underground Bomb and Ammo dump; it was in the process of being bull-dozed.

The saddest part of our nostalgic trip was when we were taken to our old swimming pool area where Jack played water-polo and swam a lot. All that remained was the Pool itself, fenced off in an overgrown area. We were allowed entry and it was sad to see it in its present state: full of green stagnant water. It wasn’t until next day we discovered we had received a few mozzie bites.

We had been kindly been invited for dinner and drinks at the Officer’s Mess which had been rebuilt on the spot where the RAF Seletar Yacht Club was. We got washed and dressed for the occasion, which was informal but Alex and I got dressed for the night.

We started with some beers inside, but as the sun went down we moved outside on the veranda, and had a buffet dinner which was excellent. Whilst we were sitting there one of our friend’s wives said she wouldn’t mind a coconut – so the RSM said “no problem” and went off and came back with three for the ladies at our table.

We moved back inside afterwards where we had some more beers and one of our party, Maurice, showed a video of his life with his family in Singapore in the early 50s

Alex had a chat with the Camp Commandant and one of his officers, Captain Tan, explained how National Service operates. Alex also asked John Gabriel how he became CO as a civilian. He said he finished up as a Captain but after joining the Civil Service he eventually became CO which seems to be common practice in Singapore.

After a long excellent day and night we returned by bus to the Carlton.

Day Seven Friday March 27th

Friday was a “free “ day – so Alex and I spent a couple of hours at the hotel swimming pool which was on the fifth floor but, remarkably, was in the open air. Alex didn’t go in but I did a few times but it was very cold.

In the evening we went for something to eat across the Road to a place called Harry’s Bar. This had been recommended by one of our group but it was very busy and noisy with young people on their  “ Friday night out“. We managed to get a table with stools you needed a ladder to get on and I ordered fish and chips but didn’t get my favourite: haddock. Alex had Angus beef pie which was served very hot, still  in the saucepan it had been cooked in even with thin pastry on top (very original).

Day Eight Saturday March 28th

Left the hotel at 1:30 pm for our visit and barbecue at Sue Amey’s house. Sue and her husband Oliver used to host this party when she lived in 10 Hyde Park Gate, RAF Seletar. They had to move to Johor last year because the houses are being demolished.

After a drive along the West Coast we arrived at the new Causeway to cross over to Johor Bahru in Malaysia. In the 1950s it was just a matter of crossing over, but now it is a complicated affair, with Immigration and Visit passes both sides. We eventually got through, and the bus, guided by Kuan Joo gave us a tour around the coast. We had a look across to Seletar from the Johor side. We eventually arrived at Sue’s house around 6 pm and were welcomed by her and her husband. They have a large patio and garden so tables and chairs were set up to accommodate us all. We stuck with our usual group of eight.

Professional caterers supplied the buffet, cooking on site. Beer was in cans and was floating in a large tank full of ice. Boxed red and white wine, looked after by Dave Taylor, was on hand as usual for those who preferred it. As this was the day where “Earth Hour” (lights out for 1 hour at 8 pm) would take place worldwide., Oliver had rigged up a generator and external patio lights and we carried on with a most enjoyable evening. We all thanked Sue and Oliver and boarded the bus which returned to Singapore by the Old Causeway which didn’t seem to cause so much hassle getting through Immigration.

Day Nine Sunday March 29th

This was another “ free” Day  and David Taylor asked if anyone wanted to go to Raffles Hotel for an International Buffet Lunch. Alex said he did not want to go but I said “it’s a once in a lifetime event, let’s go, it will be my treat”.

So we got dressed and met in our hotel lobby. Only 7 of us went, Alex and I , Chris and Bev, David and Margaret and Stuart. We were all seated at the same table and whenever we sat down the wine waiter was at our table and Champagne was poured for everyone. This was the routine whenever your glass reached quarter full. It was never allowed to be empty.

Well the lunch was out of this world as was to be expected at Raffles. You name it and it was there from starters, right through to desserts. It lasted from 1 pm to 3pm and afterwards we sat out on the veranda and relaxed until the Heavens opened up.

We had a walk round the hotel grounds until the rain eased then we went back to our hotel and took it easy for the rest of the day and due to having had a late and heavy lunch we only had a sandwich and drink at Subway in the Evening.

Day 10 Monday March 30th

We travelled West along the Coast in our bus, stopping first at the World War 2 Gun emplacement at Fort Pasir Panjang situated on top of a hill. We were given a guided tour through the tunnels. Although the tunnels complex was built in 1886, their ammo stores and pulleys served the large guns. Their gun crews were also employed for defence of any southern coastal attack on Singapore in World War 2. Unfortunately, they were useless as the Japanese invaded Singapore from the north and the guns could not be turned around.

We then went to Haw Par Villa known by us as Tiger Balm Gardens. It was gifted by the family who owned it, to the Government and entry is free. It is beginning to show its age and the colours are beginning to fade.

We went for lunch to a large Chinese restaurant and Alex chose tea for his drink. I soon discovered it was Chrysanthemum Tea and it was cold, but bland, but he drank it.

Once again it was the usual type of service with many courses which involved seafood, rice and chicken, very nice.

In the evening we went to the Tiger Brewery and after a short tour of the plant we were invited into the Brewery Bar which is predominantly for employees’ use. It is themed on an old English style pub, very nice. We had drinks and a buffet dinner before heading back to the hotel.

Day Eleven Tuesday March 31st

This was another “free day”, so Alex and I had another walk to Bugis Street to buy some souvenir gifts for family and friends.

At lunch time we went over to the Food Hall in Raffles City Mall and had a snack in Subway. In the evening we went to the 24 Hour Food Hall behind the hotel and had nasi goreng (fried rice with shrimps, seafood etc.). This was very cheap $S3:00 or £1:50.

Dick and Cathie Duff from Longforgan joined us later and we had a couple of beers and went back to our room for some more drinks.

Day Twelve Wednesday April 1st

We left the Hotel by bus at 1:30 pm and did a sight-seeing tour on the way to the highest point in Singapore, Mount Faber. It is basically a hill to us as it is only 105 Metres high (344 Feet), but the road up for the bus was very steep and winding.

We could see over to Sentosa Island, in fact there was a cable-car station taking you to the island if you wanted to, but we didn’t have time. We all took some photos and boarded the bus. When we got to our next stopping place at Pasir Panjang, Battle Museum at Kent Ridge – I said “I have left my stick up there”. I approached the Driver but he said he couldn’t go back. Alex then asked Kuan Joo if he could do anything and he said he would try to work something out.

We were shown a DVD of the famous battle where Malay, Australian and British Regiments valiantly defended the hill in February 1942 until they were overwhelmed by the Japanese Army. There were various rooms showing reminders of that terrible time.

Kuan Joo told Alex that when we were finished our tour that we were going back to Mt. Faber for my stick and we thanked everyone concerned with its retrieval.

We went to a park, stretching for miles and the view was tremendous. This was part of a series of woodland trails for the public. Kuan Joo also showed us from here the high rise complex where he lived which was not too far away.

We arrived at Normanton Park around 6pm where Kuan Joo lives with his wife, Joyce, on the 20th floor in one of the 3 blocks of flats. It used to be for retired officers but is now open to anyone.

Obviously we couldn’t all pile into his flat so our reception was held in the complex’s club next to the swimming pool.

The beer was on draught so after a bit of setting up by KJ and David Taylor we got started with some beer and the lady who ran the pool bar and grill catered for us with a lovely buffet meal. John Gabriel, the Seletar CO, joined us and gave us each a photographic memento of our trip to Seletar. Sue Amey and Oliver turned up as well; we had a most enjoyable evening and left 9:30ish.

Day Thirteen Thursday April 2nd

Another “free day“ so Alex and I set out after breakfast for Woodlands to see if I could find the bungalow where Mary, Lynn, John and I lived from 1967 to 1969.

I said we would be easier getting a taxi at the hotel front rather than going by bus or MRT Train. On arrival at Woodlands I tried to explain to the taxi driver that we wanted to get out behind the Kranji War Memorial. The driver wasn’t too sure where the roads were, so we got off at the entrance to the Memorial and walked a good distance, although it was boiling hot, until we found some steps up the banking and when we got to the top I said “I think this is where my house was”.

There was a Chinese lady in her garden and she smiled at us, so we walked over. On talking to her, it transpired she was actually living in my old house. Another gentleman came out from his house and spoke to us and I told him that the house he was living in was John’s kindergarten. As it was 90 degrees outside, he invited us in to the house where we met his wife and son and they gave some refreshing drinks and were very nice hospitable people.

After freshening up, Mr Abrahim said they would take us back to the City but I told him that we wanted to wander round the streets to see if it would bring back memories. The couple protested saying “you can’t walk about in this heat!”.

This is the highlight of my trip. I was deeply moved recalling memories of Mary and my young family and their time spent there. On our walk round the estate, a few cars stopped to see if we needed help or a lift. They must have taken pity on a couple of old codgers wandering around!

When we returned to Jalan Kasu we took some photos at my old house, No 76. The lady who owned the house said that her husband was a taxi driver, and was going to take us back. But first of all he got his wife to bring us large glasses of iced water and also offered us something to eat, which we declined. We took photos with the couple and said our goodbyes and returned to the Carlton by his taxi. On the way we had a good conversation with him and he told us they had only lived in the house for 8 months and it had cost them $S720,000 (around £310,000). When we arrived at the hotel and asked how much the fare was he said “no charge” – but Jack insisted he took $S20. We had met some very nice people on our trip to Woodlands.

Day Fourteen Friday April 3rd

This was also a free day. Alex went to Orchard Road where he had seen a bracelet in a jeweller’s that he wanted for his wife Cathie and he thought it needed an extra link and they said he could collect it on Sunday.

He then went to the Singapore Airlines Office to see if we could reserve 4 seats on the Upper Deck on the flight home. The chap told him we could reserve them but couldn’t book them as I would have to come back on Saturday which was 48 hours before the flight.

When Alex returned, we decided we would go to Clarke Quay by MRT train. This involved one change of station and Clarke Quay was nice with some lovely bars and restaurants along the Waterfront but very expensive. We had a soft drink and walked back to the MRT returning to Raffles City Mall which housed the MRT Station.

I thought it would be a good idea to get a bracelet for Lynn, so off we went to Orchard Rd. and I picked one for Lynn and we said we would collect them both on Sunday.

We went to a nearby restaurant: Jack’s Place. (I didn’t get any discount though!) It served a lot of meals from New Zealand produce so we had a nice meal there and we met up with Dick and Cathie for a Beer later.

Day Fifteen Saturday April 4th

Alex returned to Singapore Airlines’ offices in Orchard Rd. with Dick Duff to try and book 4 seats on the Upper Deck of the A380-800 returning to Heathrow on Monday. We managed to get the seats and boarding passes with no problem.

We left in the bus for the last trip and after a tour round we walked through “VivoCity” which is the largest shopping mall in Singapore. We just walked through and arrived at a viewing point looking across to Sentosa Island.

We then went to the other side to where cruise ships come in and the cable car to Sentosa is overhead. We then went to the Tiger Brewery Shop and Bar which we missed previously and we were treated to some beers and we were able to purchase some “ Tiger” souvenirs.

We all had the choice of eating place between Samy’s curry or a Chinese restaurant next door to it. 17 of us chose the Chinese and the rest went to Samy’s. This was a very upmarket eating place and we were once more served with wine or beer and a 6 or 7 course meal. As we would not see the bus driver after tonight we had a collection for him for all his help, patience and ever smiling face. Dick presented it to him on the way back to the Hotel.

8 of us decided to finish the night off round at the 24 hour foodhall with a couple more beers , in our company was a British Airways 747 pilot who had joined David Taylor at Samy’s. He was on stop-over from Australia to Heathrow and his connection with the Association was that his Father had been based at Seletar and he had went to school there.

Day Sixteen Sunday April 5th

Last day so we had to pack our cases and Alex walked up to Orchard road to collect the bracelets and when he came out of the jeweller’s shop the Heaven’s opened up with thunder and lightning. I think that he had forgotten what it was like to be caught in a monsoon. He tried getting cover going through malls but eventually he made for Somerset MRT and got the train to City Hall in Raffles City. But then he had waited 15 minutess to try and get across the road. Eventually, he had to make a dash for it when traffic lights were with him. He got well and truly soaked but it was warm rain!

Day Seventeen Monday April 6th

I think Alex and I were ready for going home. Ten of us were going back to Heathrow the rest were going on to Penang for another week. Our cases were picked up at the room door at 8:30 and we didn’t see them until we were at the Airport.

Terminal 3 at Changi is a beautiful new terminal built specially for the Airbus A380-800. It was fully carpeted and had lovely Duty Free shops as opposed to City prices. Alcohol and cigarettes were very cheap but unfortunately we had no room in our trolley bag for bottles. We had no problems getting checked in as we already had our boarding passes. The flight home was reasonably pleasant and we were kept well supplied with meals and refreshments. It was very long 13 ½ hours. It seemed much longer coming back, I think because it was a day-time flight. I managed to get a couple of sleeps by going downstairs and getting laid out across 4 seats. Dick had to move seats when a poor stewardess accidently knocked a bottle of red wine over his jeans and seat, but he got back later beside his wife Cathie when it had dried.

We were going to be 30 minutes late arriving at Heathrow, so Alex spoke to one of the male cabin crew and explained our situation in getting from Terminal 3 to 1 to catch the last flight to Glasgow. He came back later and said he had been in contact with Heathrow. Somebody would meet us as we got off and we were taken through to Business class 30 minutes before landing so as we would be one of the first to get off. We were then met by a chap, and I explained that we still had to collect our luggage before getting to T1. He arranged with a colleague to get it transferred onto our flight. After walking for what seemed miles and a lot of red tape we eventually got boarded and home to Glasgow and our luggage was there as well. Well done to Singapore Airlines and Heathrow baggage staff.

I got a taxi back to Nethercraigs Road and Alex stayed the night with him and John. John kindly drove me to Buchanan St. Bus Station in the morning.

What a great Mate Alex is not only for writing this, but for being Alex.