Singapore Tour 2011
Singapore Sling
David Taylor
Seletar Photo Gallery Singapore Photo Gallery Penang Photo Gallery
Although I didn’t leave Heathrow with the other 46 travellers - having flown out earlier so as to attend a wedding in NZ and an airshow in Oz, leaving UK departure arrangements in the capable hands of Brian Prior - I was at Changi on March 19 along with Kuan Joo, ready to meet the group upon arrival, shortly after a tropical downpour had passed over the island. It was just about the only daytime inclement weather we were to see during our most successful tour yet.
With 24 regulars and 22 new members or first time Singapore tour attendees, this group seemed to gel almost from the start, and some three weeks later were all good friends.
The thought that, after eight tours, covering eleven years, Singapore would have nothing new to offer, could not have been more wrong. There is always something new in Singapore.
Take Tengah for instance, the start of our visits to various places. The first six tours we saw little more than a glimpse of the main gate during a drive past, an occasional stop almost causing panic amongst the armed guards.
In 2009 things changed and we were afforded a brief escorted tour of the domestic site, as seen from our coach. This time, after first relieving us of cameras and mobile phones, we were actually invited over to the Officers’ Mess, on the far side of the runway. This place is a treasure trove of memorabilia, from the photos on the walls to the bar ceiling adorned with RAF squadron plaques and signatures, some dating back to pre WWII. They may have taken our cameras, but they did detail a photographer to accompany us. And the drive back covered far more than just the domestic site, plus we allowed to disembark from the coach at various sites.
Upon arrival back at the main gate they had two questions for us. The first concerned some writing on a rear wall of the ex RAF Station HQ Building - now security HQ - which they could not fathom. They assumed it to be a bit of ex RAF graffiti. The sign read “Stopcock 6 ft”. Once explained we all had a laugh about that, especially Kuan Joo.
The other query concerned the past use of the building directly behind the old HQ. Now derelict, it is sited behind blast-proof walls, most of its doors being of steel. None of us had a clue, but assumed it to have been either an armoury or Comms Centre. (If any ex Tengah members know the answer please contact Dave Taylor, who will ensure the information is passed on. Goodwill like this can only help when applying for future visits.)
Next it was on to Kranji Cemetery - via a fish farm - where we had requests from relatives to search for and photograph four headstones. We were successful with three, at one of which we held a short ceremony. Of the fourth, a post war death (a 1970s Lightning crash), we found no mention in the records, had to assume the body been repatriated to the UK.
After a brief city tour, and a visit to the Land Transport Authority’s Gallery, it was on to the Tamasek Officers’ Club for dinner. Unfortunately, Kuan Joo had for once got it wrong, (and that doesn’t happen often). Long trousers were a requirement, which meant we had to dine outside. This was fine, really, much less formal, and the weather was ideal. But as we got talking to various officers who came out to meet us, things changed. One of these very senior officers happened to be the Club President, and he immediately waived the rules and invited us in to the bar where, now suitably lubricated, our members assumed control of the previously uninhabited dance floor. The group, along with scantily dressed girl singers, immediately took the cue and began performing sixties stuff. What a night that turned out to be! A perfect end to the start of the tour? Well, maybe not for Jack D who was a little worse for wear! Nor for John M, who chose that morning to sleep in, thus missing the coach!
As usual, we soon discovered a local “coffee” shop suitably close to the hotel. Here, being as they had Tiger at a very reasonable price, we soon established ourselves, almost taking the place over. The food was very reasonable, too, in both price and quality. The Zhuang Yuan Fu therefore became our regular drinking hole, and I’d imagine they were very sorry to lose the custom after a couple of weeks.
We paid our usual visits to the Singapore Youth Flying Club, and Seletar Camp, our guests for the evening meal being the British Defence Adviser, Group Captain Clive Coombes, and his Assistants, WOII Mick Saunders, and Midshipman Dale Eyres.
Seletar West Camp had changed so much I found myself at times wondering just where I was and what had previously been where. So it was that Chris Puxley, John Patrickson and myself decided on a walking tour at a later date. Starting at the old RAF Guardroom - now a Kindergarden (wasn’t it always?) - we turned left and headed up roads now closed to vehicular traffic: Old Birdcage Walk, across a six lane highway to Maida Vale and Hyde Park Gate, where we wandered around Sue Amy’s old house, now abandoned and derelict, on to The Oval - most of these houses still in place, but also abandoned. I desperately searched round a screwdriver, so as to remove a couple of the few house number plates that were still in situ, but failed. (I later put plan B into action, and this has since borne fruit - did anyone reside at 3 Hyde Park Gate?)
It was noted that some of the trees dotted around married quarters have been declared “Heritage” by the National Parks Board, so one assumes they are protected. Each has its own plaque, giving scientific data and other details; a scheme sponsored by HSBC.
Now it was on to Park Lane, where the three black and whites had been abandoned too, so, despite notices advising against, I just had to wander round No.1, the CO’s place. It was still possible to see how grand it must have been, but looking from the verandah I found myself staring right into offices of Eurocopter Far East Headquarters building. Just across the way was a new Control Tower complex, not yet complete, and crossing a couple more new, multi-lane highways saw us back to the Birdcage Walk area, Chris finding just an open-spaced grassed area where his old school used to stand. At the new Seletar Camp maingate we caught a bus back up Piccadilly - not a lot of change here, although the site of the C of E Church is now a scrapyard - and back to Jalan Kayu for lunch. Here Chris and I met up again with John, who had disappeared as far back as Maida Vale! He was already into the beer.
After lunch we caught a bus to Seletar Airport and went for a local flight so as to see everything from above, including getting clearance to as far as Sentosa - something that is apparently rarely forthcoming.
Sentosa by the way has recently reopened after a major refurbishment. To my eyes it is now little more than Disneyworld with beaches. There again, cynical old me once likened a Carribean cruise on the Queen Mary 2 as the equivalent of Butlins at sea!
No visit to Sammy’s curry house this year, but Kuan Joo did arrange for them to deliver to Normanton Park for his evening “do”, which was well enjoyed. It was the usual Kuan Joo arrangement, lots to drink, plenty to eat, and surprise presentations. This time, a beautiful, personalised, Seletar Crest for each and everyone.
No visit to Sue’s, in Johore Bahru, this time either. Instead, after a visit to the new Marina Barrage, and the rooftop walk around the parks of the 52 storey Duxton Pinnacles en route, we caught one of the last trains over the causeway to Johore (Singapore Railway Station is scheduled to close in June), where Sue and Oliver met us with a coach and took us to the Danga Bay Marina Club for dinner and drinks. Another good night, although it almost wasn’t. The carriages on the train were a bit past their prime, the entry/exit doors refusing to close properly. Kuan Joo, standing by one which was continually blowing in on him, reached out to push it closed, only to discover there was no glass in the window he’d intended pushing on, his arm shooting out into the slipstream!
Other inclusive tours were made to the Changi area: Beach, Village, Block 151, Museum, Johore Battery etc, as usual. But this time, by request of the Changi Association members on tour with us, we took the old East Coast Road route, taking in Bedok Corner, though it is all now much changed. We paid a visit to the Sembawang military area - arranged by our friends from the High Commission, for whom nothing seemed too much trouble. Here we were at last able to pay our respects at the Prince of Wales/Repulse memorial, which was only created a couple of years ago.
Tiger Brewery was of course included the tour. No pretence of even visiting the plant this time, it was straight into the bar and the booze, along with Karioke and a meal. Minor gaffe was when one of the ladies enquired at the bar if they had any red wine! Was this was the same person who put the question re one of the hawker stalls; “Do they take credit cards?”
Another “first” was dinner at the home of the UK Defence Adviser, the aforementioned Grp Cpt Clive Coombes and his wife, Janice. On offer were freshly cooked fish and chips of a surprisingly high order, dessert, and, “as much to drink as you like. But please don’t take that as a challenge,” Clive added. Yet another very good night.
Own account visits were made to Raffles, for their magnificent Sunday lunchtime Buffet. Now back to a single sitting of three and a half hours. You can certainly shift some champagne in that time! And the food on offer is absolutely out of this world. We were given an outstanding Bloody Mary as a starter, and then it was game on. I personally sampled the following: Foie Gras - the real thing; lobster salad; prawns; onion soup; Black Cod, salmon, more prawns; Australian ribeye and US filet steak; then an excellent cheeseboard and a selection of desserts: Ice Cream with Caramel Fleur de Lay sauce; Pear Caramel; Cafe et Baileys Orange Composition; Milk Chocolate & Lemon Caramel Cake; Creme brulee; and Panlonone with Ameretto sauce - an outstanding bread & butter pudding. Of course, it pays just to take a small sample of each, if one is to survive to the end! All this was washed down with Billecart-Salmon champagne. And that was just a small sample of what was on offer. At Raffles you certainly get what you pay for. Needless to say I didn’t eat another thing that day, but we did pay the usual visit to our watering hole up the road.
A few of us made a trip out to the old Tanglin Army base - a couple of the ladies having worked there - and found it to be surprisingly intact, although all the buildings have now become restaurants, shops and the like. I also paid a visit to what had been Kalang Airport, and was surprised to find how much of this area remained unchanged, too. I’d always assumed everything but the tower to be long gone.
New this year was the spectacular Sands Marina Hotel, with its rooftop Skypark, 600ft up in the air. Some good views from up there, but not a lot of it is accessible unless you are resident. This includes the swimming pool. Considering this building is located in the area that was once the “Inner Roads Anchorage”, this is quite an achievement. Not just a hotel, either, it is a whole complex. Very upmarket shopping centre - they even have a Ferrari Store, complete with an F1 car. Next door is the Harley Davidson store. There is of course Singapore’s first casino, a museum, and extensive walkways which look across the bay to Colyer Quay.
Then it was time to depart, 16 returning to the UK, the remaining 31 to Penang.
For those heading north, as usual Penang reminded one of how Singapore used to be in the old days: open drains and all that inferred, crumbling buildings, trishaws etc. But the hotels are well up to date, and of course they all have a pool with wonderful surrounds and access to golden beaches. Prices for drinks are not too clever, there again, fifty yards down the beach we discovered yet another very good local watering hole, so that was that.
Peter, Janet Cox and I paid a visit to Tanjong Bungah, searching for the old leave centre. We found it, now the Dalat International School. None of the original buildings remain, and although the beach is almost inaccessible, we had to have a look. A walk through the Paradise Hotel next door, stroll along their beach, then follow a rough trail past the fenced off school, through a patch of jungle and there you are - a very small patch of sand and lots of large boulders! Ah well!
We had an island tour, visiting the usual places: Batik factory, Snake Temple, the Keh Lok Si Temple complex at Ayer Itam, and Georgetown for dinner at the Bayview Revolving Restaurant. Another night a group of us got adventurous. Dressed in our best clobber we caught the local bus into Georgetown for a buffet dinner at the E & O Hotel. Although very good, it was not up to par with the Raffles affair, there again, nowhere near the cost, either!
For the rest of the time we basically relaxed, drank and ate, which is basically what Penang, Batu Ferringi in particular, is all about.
Then it was time for us to depart for the UK also, via Changi. The end of another very successful tour. Lots of requests to “do it again”, so how about 2013. Roughly the same time, with perhaps Langkawi replacing Penang?
Seletar Photo Gallery Singapore Photo Gallery Penang Photo Gallery